Un Anglais à Marseille #17
Prof d’anglais et coursier à vélo à Marseille, Rory Launder livre son regard sur la ville tout en vous donnant une occasion de réviser votre anglais. Dans ce nouvel épisode, il évoque la prochaine soirée [L’EJ c’est le S] de l’Espace Julien ce mercredi, consacrée au collectif Permandanse.
Scuttling down the obstacle course cum piste cyclable of the Corniche I need to break hard to negotiate my way through the metal bollards. Past the advertising hoardings for the coming Olympics, before stopping as the Parc du Prado opens out to my right.
The lights on our bikes are turned off, and we chat excitedly in hushed tones as we walk out towards where at some point, we think we should be able to hear a sound-system. There’s no real need for such discretion, there are very few people about. But part of the fun of this type of outdoor party is the unknown. What will the spot look like? Will the system work? Will anyone come?
I’m delighted despite my advancing years to still somehow be slightly in the know. It’s the end of Summer, and Dream Machine have partnered with Permadanse to organise a little party on the water’s edge. Snuggled between the flat quiet lapping of the Mediterranean and the regular blocky concrete sea defences of the Plage du Prado we find Dreamadance. It warms my cockles to one way or another still have the info, the info-line (a phone number to ring with a recorded message detailing the location), or these days a Telegram group. We skulk, we lurk. Memories of raves from over twenty years ago jostle in my mind’s eye. Avon Gorge, Feeder Road, Abergavenny…
* * *
Wrapped up against the late-November rain in a heavy black fake-leather overcoat, jeans, and flashy trainers reminding me of Air Max ‘97s (the ones with the reflective stripes along the length of the shoe) Nina Venard aka Shefox is a dj, musician, and promoter at Permandanse. Sitting down out of the wind and rain Nina spreads herself out and is relaxed and chatty taking me through the history of the association. “Since 2018 there has been huge growth in ‘off the road’ parties in Marseille. 2018 saw Metaphore Collective, Double Cosmos, Vous Êtes Ici . . . and several others organising free parties. Previously there was only a handful of collectives, now there’s ten or more, there’s something nearly every week now”.
“Permandanse was born out of that lack of something. I’ve been on the electronic dance music scene for ten years now, and we felt Marseille was missing something. Permandanse takes an artistic regard on dance. We propose performances and want to create a dialogue between the performers and the public through dance for each individual in their own way. Sometimes at parties there is not this impulsion to dance. We want to generate that impulse, and to push it a bit further.
“Double Cosmos was a big influence for us. Events held in places that are not traditionally used for parties, queer-friendly, a safe space… all of these things help to create a real freedom to liberate the body.”
Maria Cargnelli is a dancer and will be running a free workshop before the performances on Wednesday night. Monochrome top and bottoms: black bomber jacket, black jeans, black fisherman’s hat. Contrasted (again) with flashy trainers is a look I can relate to. I don’t remember non-matching earrings in the 90s, but it’s nice to see modern evolutions on classic rave styles. “The workshop will act as preparation for the party, to create this dialogue with the public through dance. There will be some choreographic ‘phrases’ or ‘dessins’ but the workshop will remain quite free, and based around improvisation. We will be about fifteen people of different abilities, the idea is not to overcomplicate things. I don’t want to put people in difficult positions, au contraire! We want to create a link between the music and movement”.
We talk rave culture in general and the Marseille scene. Ola Radio’s Summer parties being a highlight. Sunday afternoons spent sun-drenched and starry-eyed soaking up the sounds on hidden beaches around Montredon. Sumptuous. But not without risks. Nina continues “Ola Radio had their system confiscated by the police. But for the most part (in our experience at least) the police in Marseille are fairly tolerant. They are willing to dialogue. ‘You need to cut the volume’ rather than opting for direct repression.” In England we say ‘the party polices itself’. This is more about sub-optimal behaviour from revellers, Maria perks up “The police are often busy with other things. There is a real sense of being aware, and taking care of each other. Not just because you should, but benevolence with enthusiasm”.
[If you want to donate money to help Ola Radio, they have crowdfunding options available.]
I ask Nina why they would take such risks, “We’ve done the tour of local venues: New Cancan, Chapiteau, Makeda… We organised a mini-festival at the Mer Veilleuse called Local Warming, four consecutive nights of projections, lives, dj sets, dance performances, drag acts… We needed space, and of course money to pay for all of these things, so we started to test free parties as an alternative. For the Espace Julien it was them that contacted us. It’s a municipal venue that has changed management. There was a tender process, and we were invited to participate with other associations”.
L’EJ C’EST LE S is apparently a reference to an up-and-coming local rapper called Jul. A reference I do not understand, but Maria assures me that most young Marseillais will understand. “It will be another way to see the Espace Julien, to give a vision on Permadanse, and to meet our universe. The dance workshop is fully booked. Two hours for fifteen people will be perfect. I will give them some tools which they can use in the performances that follow”.
I remark that Maria is now smiling and moving around dancing in her chair. She can do that thing that dancers do where different parts of their upper bodies move in different directions under control. “It’s normal that I start to dance when there is music! It’s my job. I have educated my body, and I want to transmit this to the group on Wednesday, and to break their inhibitions. These small repetitive movements, simple movements, they can evolve… It’s fine to be in a club alone, as one with the music, I love that. But in a group it’s something different, it’s an experiment for me too!” Maria settles back into her chair, “It may sound contradictory: but sometimes in repetition we find liberty”.
Rory Launder
Insta : un_anglais_a_marseille
[L’EJ c’est le S] – Permandanse : le 13/12 à l’Espace Julien (39 cours Julien, 6e).
Rens. : www.espace-julien.com
www.facebook.com/events/s/lej-cest-le-s-2-cafe-julien/1043361570312178/
Pour en (sa)voir plus : https://permadanse.fr/